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Textiles, lace and embroidery
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1.Henry Fox Talbot
1835 (ca)
Linen

Salt-fixed photogenic drawing negative
4 3/8 x 1 7/8 ins
 
J. Paul Getty Museum
85.XM.150.14
 
LL/43659
2.Henry Fox Talbot
n.d.
Black Lace

Salt print, from photogenic drawing negative
University of Tartu, Special Collections
f42.s6; Schaaf 3803
 
For the context see Larry H. Schaaf, “Very far away from England” - Maudie & Tartu (27 November 2015)
(Accessed: 27 November 2015)
foxtalbot.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/very-far-away-from-england-maudie-tartu/
 
LL/63026
3.Henry Fox Talbot
1839
Lace
[Album di disegni fotogenici - The Bertoloni Album, Leaf 13 Recto]

Photogenic drawing, solar microscope
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1936 (36.37.3)
 
A enlargement of lace magnified 400 times with a solar microscope.
 
LL/40625
4.Henry Fox Talbot
1839
Lace (enlarged detail)
[Album di disegni fotogenici - The Bertoloni Album, Leaf 13 Recto]

Photogenic drawing, solar microscope, detail
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Harris Brisbane Dick Fund, 1936 (36.37.3)
 
A enlargement of lace magnified 400 times with a solar microscope.
 
This section of the image has been captured to show the remarkable detail of the original.
 
LL/40626
5.Henry Fox Talbot
1835 (probably)
Depiction of Lace, mounted on blackened paper

Photogenic drawing negative
National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution
Photographic History Collection, 1995.206.39; Schaaf 1501
 
LL/60417
6.Henry Fox Talbot
1839
Folded Lace and Botanical Specimen

Photogenic drawing (digitally enhanced)
National Science and Media Museum
1997-5010, Schaaf 886
 
The pencil X at the bottom of the photogram designates the sensitive side.
 
LL/72732
7.Henry Fox Talbot
1845 (published)
Lace

Photogenic drawing negative
National Science and Media Museum
1937-396/20; Schaaf 5555
 
Plate XX in the fifth fascicle of a copy of The Pencil of Nature, published December 1845.
 
As this is the first example of a negative image that has been introduced into this work, it may be necessary to explain, in a few words, what is meant by that expression, and wherein the difference consists.
 
The ordinary effect of light upon white sensitive paper is to blacken it. If therefore any object, as a leaf for instance, be laid upon the paper, this, by intercepting the action of the light, preserves the whiteness of the paper beneath it, and accordingly when it is removed there appears the form or shadow of the leaf marked out in white upon the blackened paper; and since shadows are usually dark, and this is the reverse, it is called in the language of photography a negative image.
 
This is exemplified by the lace depicted in this plate; each copy of it being an original or negative image: that is to say, directly taken from the lace itself. Now, if instead of copying the lace we were to copy one of these negative images of it, the result would be a positive image of the lace: that is to say, the lace would be represented black upon a white ground. But in this secondary or positive image the representation of the small delicate threads which compose the lace would not be quite so sharp and distinct, owing to its not being taken directly from the original. In taking views of buildings, statues, portraits, &c. it is necessary to obtain a positive image, because the negative images of such objects are hardly intelligible, substituting light for shade, and vice versa.
 
But in copying such things as lace or leaves of plants, a negative image is perfectly allowable, black lace being as familiar to the eye as white lace, and the object being only to exhibit the pattern with accuracy.
 
In the commencement of the photographic art, it was a matter of great difficulty to obtain good positive images, because the original or negative pictures, when exposed to the sunshine, speedily grew opaque in their interior, and consequently would not yield any positive copies, or only a very few of them. But, happily, this difficulty has been long since surmounted, and the negative or original pictures now always remain transparent during the process of copying them.
 
H. Fox Talbot, The Pencil of Nature, (London: Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans, 1844)
 
LL/70939
8.Henry Fox Talbot
1839-1844
Lace

Photogenic drawing negative
17.1 x 22 cm (6 3/4 x 8 11/16 ins) (image)
 
National Gallery of Art
Patrons' Permanent Fund, 1995.36.116
 
LL/76759
9.Henry Fox Talbot
1844 (published)
Lace
[The Pencil of Nature, Part 5, pl. 20]

Calotype
Hans P. Kraus, Jr., Inc.
Taken from the reproductions in Larry J. Schaaf, H. Fox Talbot's The Pencil of Nature; Anniversary Facsimile (New York: Hans P. Kraus, Jr. Inc., 1989). The originals selected for this publication were the best single examples available for each plate. Not to be reproduced without permission of H.P. Kraus, Jr.
 
As this is the first example of a negative image that has been introduced into this work, it may be necessary to explain, in a few words, what is meant by that expression, and wherein the difference consists.
 
The ordinary effect of light upon white sensitive paper is to blacken it. If therefore any object, as a leaf for instance, be laid upon the paper, this, by intercepting the action of the light, preserves the whiteness of the paper beneath it, and accordingly when it is removed there appears the form or shadow of the leaf marked out in white upon the blackened paper; and since shadows are usually dark, and this is the reverse, it is called in the language of photography a negative image.
 
This is exemplified by the lace depicted in this plate; each copy of it being an original or negative image: that is to say, directly taken from the lace itself. Now, if instead of copying the lace we were to copy one of these negative images of it, the result would be a positive image of the lace: that is to say, the lace would be represented black upon a white ground. But in this secondary or positive image the representation of the small delicate threads which compose the lace would not be quite so sharp and distinct, owing to its not being taken directly from the original. In taking views of buildings, statues, portraits, &c. it is necessary to obtain a positive image, because the negative images of such objects are hardly intelligible, substituting light for shade, and vice versa.
 
But in copying such things as lace or leaves of plants, a negative image is perfectly allowable, black lace being as familiar to the eye as white lace, and the object being only to exhibit the pattern with accuracy.
 
In the commencement of the photographic art, it was a matter of great difficulty to obtain good positive images, because the original or negative pictures, when exposed to the sunshine, speedily grew opaque in their interior, and consequently would not yield any positive copies, or only a very few of them. But, happily, this difficulty has been long since surmounted, and the negative or original pictures now always remain transparent during the process of copying them.
 
H. Fox Talbot, The Pencil of Nature, (London: Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans, 1844)
 
LL/18337
10.Henry Fox Talbot
1840s (early)
Lace

Salt print, from calotype negative
23.0 x 18.8 cm
 
Hans P. Kraus, Jr., Inc.
This photograph was included in the exhibition "William Henry Fox Talbot: Selections from a Private Collection" held at Hans P. Kraus, Jr., Inc. in New York (September 27 - November 9, 2007)
 
LL/22794
11.Henry Fox Talbot
1840-1845 (ca)
Lace

Salted paper print, from a paper negative
9 1/16 × 7 3/8 ins (23 × 18.7 cm) (image and sheet)
 
Philadelphia Museum of Art
Purchased with the Robert A. Hauslohner Fund, 1967, Accession Number: 1967-48-3
 
LL/72435
12.Henry Fox Talbot
1840s (early)
Lace

Salted paper print, from a photogenic drawing negative
8 15/16 x 7 3/8 in. (22.7 x 18.7 cm) (image) 9 x 7 7/16 in. (22.9 x 18.8 cm) (sheet)
 
Carnegie Museum of Art
Purchased with funds provided by The William Talbott Hillman Foundation. 2017.2.1
 
LL/77045
13.Henry Fox Talbot
1844, January (before)
[The Milliner's Window]

Salt print, from calotype negative
14.3 x 19.5 cm
 
J. Paul Getty Museum
lido.getty.edu-gm-obj69835
 
LL/54853
14.Henry Fox Talbot
1852-1858
Crossed Muslin

Photographic engraving from a metal plate
National Science and Media Museum
Ref Number: 1937-5106/3
 
[Curatorial description - National Media Museum - December 2011]
 
The image was made using the photoglyphic engraving process, invented by Talbot. A chemical mixture was applied to a metal plate, then exposed under an object or a photographic positive. The coating hardened where the light reached it, the plate could then be etched and used for printing.
 
LL/45216
15.Henry Fox Talbot
1844 (album)
Lace

Salted paper print
18.1 x 22 cm
 
National Science and Media Museum
Matilda Talbot 1934, Object owner number: 1937-2535/07, Schaaf no. 1073
 
Alternate title: Lady Elisabeth Feilding's personal album, 1844
 
LL/73187
16.Henry Fox Talbot
n.d.
Lace

Salted paper print
20.4 x 18.2 cm
 
National Science and Media Museum
Matilda Talbot 1934, Object owner number: 1937-0366/051, Schaaf no. 888
 
Alternate title: TALBOT ALBUM No. 10; NMeM first of pair of "Lady E" albums
 
LL/73195
17.Henry Fox Talbot
1839
Lace magnified 400 times in the solar microscrope

Photogenic drawing negative
Metropolitan Museum of Art
36.37(14), Schaaf 2281
 
LL/76407
18.Henry Fox Talbot
n.d.
Lace

Salted paper print
18.1 x 22 cm
 
National Science and Media Museum
Matilda Talbot 1934, Object owner number: 1937-2536/35, Schaaf no. 4183
 
Alternate title: large marbled album, some titles by Lady Elisabeth Feilding
 
LL/73204
19.Ludwig Belitski
1854
[Embroidered textiles and lace]

Salt print, from wet plate negative
8 1/2 x 9 1/8 ins (21.6 x 23.2 cm)
 
Contemporary Works / Vintage Works
REF.# 15014
 
LL/74070
20.John Herschel
1839
Study of lace

Photogenic drawing
Museum of the History of Science
LL/39609
21.Unidentified photographer
1890
Vitraye (France)

Cyanotype
61 x 53.7 cm
 
AnamorFose
LL/10644
22.Unidentified photographer
1890 (ca)
Nottingham Sample Book #1 (UK)

Cyanotype
14.4 x 8.4 cm
 
AnamorFose
LL/10642
23.Charles F. Lummis
1888 (ca)
Image of embroidered lace

Cyanotype
12 x 19 cm
 
Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens
Photograph Album from Charles F. Lummis to Susanita Del Valle, 1888, Call Number: photCL 504, Unique Digital Identifier: 397376
 
LL/71007
24.Charles F. Lummis
1887
Image a cloth with embroidered lace edging

Cyanotype
12 x 19 cm
 
Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens
Photograph Album from Charles F. Lummis to Susanita Del Valle, 1888, Call Number: photCL 504, Unique Digital Identifier: 397420
 
LL/71008
25.Unidentified photographer
1890s
Lace maker's pattern with lace

Cyanotype
10 x 9 in
 
Private collection of Brad Feuerhelm
LL/12982
26.1900 (ca)
Cotton cyanotype pillow case with 12 views depicting an American small town.

Pillow case
Swann Galleries - New York
Sale 2345, The Vernacular Eye: Photographic Albums, Snapshots & Objects, 17 April 2014, Lot: 104
 
The summertime prints include a July 4th parade, with townspeople lining the streets, a float of dancing girls, a horse-drawn wagon draped in flags, and baby lambs, as well as street scenes in the snow and more.
 
LL/53781
27.Unidentified photographer
1910 (ca)
Pillow made up of 30 cyanotype images on cloth sewn together

Cyanotype, on fabric
47.5 x 49.0 x 12.5 cm
 
George Eastman Museum
Gift of Mrs. Dorothy Tirrell Clagett, 1989.0164.0001
 
LL/69791
28.Unidentified maker
1895 (ca)
Child's pillow case highlighted with cyanotypes

Cyanotypes
Private collection of Daile Kaplan - www.popphotographica.com
LL/76036
29.Syhlinf & Koehn Souvenir Pillow Tops (manufacturer)
1900 (ca)
Pillow case with Chicago landmarks

Fabric, pillow case
Private collection of Jack and Beverly Wilgus
LL/66615
30.Abigail Wyman Wilder
1901
Millers Falls grammar school class of 1901

Cyanotype, on pillow cover
41 × 40.8 cm (16 1/8 × 16 1/16 ins)
 
George Eastman Museum
Gift of Bernard Heinz, 1987.0828.0001
 
LL/69792
31.Annette Fournet
2006
Irish Seamstress
[Lost Promises]

Collage, tintype, fabric, thread, buttons
Provided by the artist - Annette Fournet
LL/80330
32.Steffani Frideres
2017
Round and Round we go we will stop wherever we go.
[Cyanotypes]

Cyanotype on cloth, embroidery and dice charm
10 x 10 ins
 
Provided by the artist - Steffani Frideres
LL/80368
33.Steffani Frideres
2017
Little Robin red Breast, sat upon his comfy nest, what shall I do today, stack blocks and cry and say…
[Cyanotypes]

Cyanotype, bird charm and embroidery
Provided by the artist - Steffani Frideres
LL/80367
34.Steffani Frideres
2017
Arithmetic: A reliable Indian thought he might educate them in Cree.
[Cyanotypes]

Cyanotype on cloth, embroidery and Milagros lungs
10 x 10 ins
 
Provided by the artist - Steffani Frideres
LL/80372
35.Unidentified photographer / artist
1865
Fig. 43. Unfinished Work of a Spanish Nun

Book illustration
Google Books
Bury Palliser History of Lace (London: Sampson Low, Son & Marston, 1865), p.81.
 
We have lately received from Rome photographs of some curious relics of old Spanish conventual work parchment patterns with the lace in progress. They were found in the convent of Jesu Bambino, and belonged to some Spanish nuns who, in bygone ages, taught the art to the novices. None of the present inmates can give further information respecting them.
 
LL/36116
36.Berenice Abbott
1931
Photograph design for a textile

Gelatin silver print
8 7/8 x 6 5/16 ins (22.5 x 16.1 cm)
 
Philadelphia Museum of Art
The Lynne and Harold Honickman Gift of the Julien Levy Collection, 2001, 2001-62-1234
 
LL/40653
37.Paul Desagne
1878
Dentelles Anciennes

Carbon print
10 1/2 x 8 3/4 ins
 
Archive Farms
Annotated on mount below image: Pl IV, A. Morel et Cie, Paris, Permanent Printing Company London.
 
LL/65063
38.Adolf Lazi
1930s
Advertising photograph (lace, fabric)

Gelatin silver print, ferrotyped
Bassenge Photography Auctions
Photography 19th-21st Century (1 June 2011) Lot: 4280
 
LL/43764
39.Heinrich Koch
1929-1932
Fabric study

Gelatin silver print, ferrotyped
23.8 x 18 cm
 
Bassenge Photography Auctions
Courtesy of Bassenge, 19th-21st Century Photography, 6 June 2012, Lot: 4204
 
LL/47974
40.Hippolyte Bayard
1840 (ca)
Lace glove

Photographic print
Creative Commons - Wikipedia
Neue Geschichte der Fotografie, (Köln: Könemann, 1998) p. 22
 
LL/46079
41.Arthur E. Smith
1909
Fig. 65. Fine silk. x 50

Book illustration
Internet Archive
Published in - Richard Kerr & Arthur E. Smith, 1909, Nature Through Microscope and Camera, (London: Religious Tract Society)
 
LL/65706
42.Unidentified photographer
n.d.
Portrait of a lady wearing a lace collar (American)

Tintype, whole plate
10 x 8 in (edge of matte)
 
Stereographica - Antique Photographica
Courtesy of Bryan and Page Ginns (#18 / 130)
 
A sample of the lace collar is attached to the top left corner of the mat. The mustard colored mat shows minor signs of wear. There is a photographer's label on the obverse, "From, Phillips & Krementz Photograph Gallery, Louisville, KY." The item has no glass cover or frame.
 
LL/21586
43.Unidentified photographer
1850 (ca)
Portrait of a young girl

Daguerreotype, 1/6 plate
Archives of Modern Conflict OR National Gallery of Canada
Girl wearing dress with piece of material from the same dress pinned to opposite side of case. The colors of the snippet of material are as fresh as when the material was first made, probably since it was protected from the environment in the closed daguerreotype case. This gives us an unusual chance to see how some colors reproduce in a daguerreotype. Note the design is printed on the cloth as opposed to being woven.
 
Though not really an "occupational", it seemed the girl was so proud of the dress that she wanted to send a message forward concerning its presence in the image. (Matt Isenburg)
 
LL/11422
   
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